Discover Your Backyard – From Deer Abbey to Boddam

Barry Pickard
Oct 23
7 min read

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. Regardless of this, please be advised that all opinions expressed in this blog post are genuine and authentically my own.

Author: Barry Pickard

Hi, I'm Barry, the owner of Tailor-Made Itineraries and I have been designing bespoke self-guided tours for adventurous and curious travellers since 2015. I am a history graduate with a passion for travel.

I created this blog to show, through my own adventures, how you can have an incredible travel experience as an independent traveller, giving you the information to navigate the world with confidence.

Deer Abbey

Aikey Brae

Peterhead Prison Museum

Buchan Ness Lighthouse

Conclusion

Accommodation Suggestions

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What hidden treasures await discovery along Aberdeenshire's Buchan coast that combine 4,000 years of history with spine-chilling modern stories? The answer hit me as I stood among the ancient granite stones of Aikey Brae, listening to the wind whistle across the Buchan countryside while the sharp tang of North Sea salt drifted inland from Boddam's lighthouse and the distant echo of voices from Peterhead's infamous prison museum reminded me of Scotland's darker chapters. This stretch between Deer Abbey and Boddam isn't just another scenic Scottish drive—it's where medieval monasteries, prehistoric stone circles, and one of Scotland's most notorious prisons create an unexpectedly fascinating day out in your own backyard.

As someone who's spent many years designing Scottish itineraries and exploring every corner of Aberdeenshire, I've discovered that the Buchan region rewards independent travellers with stories that span four millennia. During my research trip through this often-overlooked corner of northeast Scotland—from deciphering the mysteries of recumbent stone circles to experiencing the chilling atmosphere inside Scotland's most infamous prison—I've personally experienced every site and story I'm about to share with you. I'm not talking about generic tourist recommendations; these are genuine discoveries that reveal how this corner of Aberdeenshire seamlessly weaves together ancient Celtic spirituality, medieval monastic life, and surprisingly dark modern history.

If you're an independent traveller who gets excited about exploring places where ancient stones still hold their secrets and former prison cells tell tales of Scotland's criminal past, you've found the perfect guide. I'll share the practical knowledge that'll help you navigate unmarked country roads to stone circles, understand the significance of those medieval abbey ruins, and prepare yourself for the surprisingly intense experience of touring Scotland's most notorious former prison.

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Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries delights in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if visiting any of these attractions appeals to you, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating the wonderful sights of Aberdeenshire, or indeed, a general tour of Scotland itself.

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Deer Abbey

Near the modern day village of Mintlaw lies the tranquil ruins of a Cistercian monastery founded in 1219. For more than 300 years, Deer Abbey was home to Cistercian monks. They seem to have lived a quiet and contemplative life until the Protestant Reformation of 1560 brought the abbey’s spiritual use to a close.

Only the footings of Deer Abbey remain today after years of alterations and destruction, although there are still substantial ruins where the refectory, or dining hall, once stood.

The abbey is associated with the Book of Deer, which was probably kept in the abbey’s library. This Gospel book was written around AD 900 but contains many additions from around 200 years later. These additions are the oldest body of Gaelic writing in Scotland. The book is now kept at Cambridge University in England.

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Aikey Brae

Only a five minute drive from Deer Abbey, is the even older Aikey Brae Stone Circle, which was erected around 4,000 years ago. The circle is well signposted and there is a small car park at the bottom of the hill. A brisk 5-minute walk up the hill to the circle gives excellent views of the countryside, with the small copse of trees having recently been cut down to give uninterrupted views of the stones.

Aikey Brae Stone Circle is the most intact Recumbent Stone Circle in Northern Aberdeenshire (these circles are made up of several standing stones, plus a large horizontal - or “recumbent” - stone which has an upright flanking stone at either side of it). Aikey Brae has 5 erect stones, including the recumbent and East flanker, and 5 fallen stones, including the West flanker. They are set upon a circular bank of small stones and earth c.14.4m in diameter, with kerbs formed by slab-like stones on the inner and outer faces. Most of the stones of the circle are of granite although the fallen West flanker and recumbent are of whinstone. The recumbent is estimated to weigh 21.5 tons.

To read our previous stone circle blog post, click here.

Peterhead Prison Museum

We then headed for the coast and the biggest town in the Buchan area, Peterhead. Our destination was the Peterhead Prison Museum, which is set within the former prison walls. The prison was once known as the most notorious prison in Scotland and the location of the only time the S.A.S were used in Britain to end a domestic siege after an officer was held hostage on the roof tops for 4 days.

The tour of the prison takes you through time from 1888 when it first opened its doors to 2013 when it closed, and you witness how life was for staff serving in this prison. As you follow the tour, you can hear some staff members speak of their experiences as you make your way through the halls, reception, shower block, court room segregation wing, silent cell, and hospital. The tour is remarkably interesting and a touch macabre at times, and really conveys the conditions in this most infamous location.

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Buchan Ness Lighthouse

Just south of Peterhead is the quaint seaside village of Bodam and its imposing Buchan Ness Lighthouse. The lighthouse was surveyed by Robert Stevenson, Engineer of the Lighthouse Board, and built in 1827. During the World War a drifting mine was washed ashore and exploded some 50 yards from the lighthouse. No one was injured but 3 lantern panes were cracked, 12 other panes of glass were broken in the tower, engine room and cottages. In 1978 the light was converted to electricity, and in 1988 it was automated.

There are 166 steps to the top of the tower, and you can even stay at the lighthouse buildings since they have now been converted into holiday cottages. Unless you are staying in the cottages, you cannot access the lighthouse, but there is a path that circles the perimeter of the compound.

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Conclusion

This journey from Deer Abbey to Boddam proves that some of Scotland's most compelling stories unfold just off the beaten path, where ancient mysteries and modern history converge in ways that surprise even seasoned travellers. From standing among 4,000-year-old stones that our ancestors arranged for reasons we can only guess at to walking through prison cells that housed Scotland's most dangerous criminals until just a decade ago, this Buchan day trip offers independent travellers an extraordinary range of experiences within a compact area. What struck me most wasn't just the diversity of sites packed into this corner of Aberdeenshire, but how each location connects to the others through threads of human ambition, spirituality, and survival that define the Scottish character. Whether you're drawn to prehistoric puzzles, medieval tranquillity, or the darker chapters of recent history, this route delivers discoveries that prove you don't need to travel far to find adventures that will stay with you long after you've returned home.

Accommodation Suggestions

The Boddam and Peterhead area offers an appealing mix of accommodation options — from elegant seaside hotels and cosy inns to comfortable, great-value stays. Whether you’re looking for a touch of luxury, a reliable mid-range base, or a budget-friendly stopover while travelling along the Aberdeenshire coast, you’ll find plenty of inviting places to rest up after exploring the dramatic scenery and attractions.

Premium

Buchan Braes Hotel (Boddam) - Located right in the heart of Boddam, the Buchan Braes Hotel combines contemporary comfort with refined coastal style. Its spacious, well-appointed rooms and suites offer everything you need for a relaxing evening after a day of adventure, while the on-site restaurant serves top-quality dishes made with local produce — especially fresh seafood.

Mid-Range

Seaview Hotel (Boddam) - If you’re looking for a friendly, affordable, and well-located place to stay, the Seaview Hotel is a perfect choice. True to its name, the hotel looks out over the North Sea and offers a mix of comfortable rooms, hearty pub meals, and a welcoming atmosphere that perfectly captures Highland hospitality. You’re just a short walk from the lighthouse and rugged cliffs — a great base for coastal walks or a relaxed overnight break.

Budget

The Waverley Hotel (Peterhead) - Just a few minutes’ drive from Boddam, The Waverley Hotel in Peterhead is a fantastic budget-friendly option. Clean, comfortable rooms, friendly staff, and a central location make it ideal for travellers who prefer to save on accommodation without sacrificing convenience.

Tailor-Made Top Tip

The Boddam and Peterhead area can get busy during peak travel months, so it’s worth booking ahead to secure your preferred stay. Click through the links above to lock in your accommodation and ensure a smooth, relaxed journey along this spectacular stretch of the Aberdeenshire coast.