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Author: Barry Pickard
Contents
Stepwells can be found across India, however certain regions have a higher concentration of these remarkable structures, none more so than the state of Rajasthan, which boasts a significant number of them. Indeed, according to UNESCO's Global Network of Water Museums, there are over 7,000 stepwell in Rajasthan and the neighbouring Gujarat! During my travels around Rajasthan, I was constantly in awe of these architectural wonders, and I began actively seeking them out. In this post, I will detail the various stepwells I encountered, but first of all, let me answer some basic questions that you may have on these Rajasthani gems.
What Are Stepwells?
Stepwells are ingeniously designed reservoirs that served as multifunctional oases in the often-arid landscape of Rajasthan. These pools of water were often accessed by a single grand staircase or by multiple geometrically designed steps and could be adorned with intricate carvings. These wells were not only sources of hydration but also communal spaces for social gatherings, rituals, and respite from the scorching sun. Stepwells go by different names depending on the region. In Rajasthani, they are known as “bawri”, “baoli”, “bavadi”, and “bavdi”.
How Were Stepwells Used?
Water Storage: Stepwells collected rainwater during the monsoon season, storing it for the dry months. The deeper one descended, the cooler the air, which, as I can attest to, is a much welcome relief in Rajasthan’s unforgiving climate.
Community Hubs: Stepwells were vibrant hubs where locals gathered. Women chatted while drawing water, children played, and travellers rested.
Spiritual Significance: The descent into the cooler, quieter world, was often seen as a symbolic journey, leading down to the water, which itself could be considered a sacred element. The wells were also often adorned with sculptures of deities, particularly those associated with water.
How Do Stepwells Work?
The architecture of stepwells is a marvel of precision. They would harvest rainwater, with their elaborate catchment areas channelling rainwater into the well. The steps acted as filters, allowing sediment to settle while water flowed downward. The depth of stepwells ensured cooler temperatures and the water’s surface remained shaded, preventing rapid evaporation.
The History and Cultural Importance of Stepwells
Stepwells have ancient origins, dating back to at least the 2nd millennium BCE. Their construction peaked during the medieval period, and reflected a fusion of Hindu, Jain, and Islamic architectural styles. British Colonial neglect and modernization led to the abandonment of many stepwells. However, during my travels, I did see more recent efforts to focus on their restoration and preservation.
Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries delights in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if visiting any of these stepwells appeals to you, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating the stunning attractions detailed in this guide to the stepwells of Rajasthan.
Guide to the Stepwells of Rajasthan
Chand Baori – Abhaneri
Nestled within the otherwise unremarkable village of Abhaneri, lies the captivating Chand Baori stepwell. Plunging a remarkable 100 feet (30 meters) into the earth, it stands as a testament to both the ingenuity and artistry of ancient India. This colossal structure is thought to be the deepest and largest stepwell in the country, and possibly the world. Chand Boari is also arguably the most beautiful of all stepwells.
While the exact origins of the Chand Baori remain shrouded in some mystery, historians believe it was constructed sometime between the 8th and 9th centuries, possibly making it the oldest surviving stepwell in India. Raja Chanda of the Nikumbh dynasty has been credited with its construction, but evidence for this is unclear.
Chand Baori's design is as intriguing as its history. It boasts a four-sided structure, of which one side features a grand temple, while the remaining three sides showcase a truly awe-inspiring sight. A mind-boggling 3,500 steps cascade down these three faces, creating a mesmerizing geometric pattern reminiscent of M.C. Escher's work. These steps are arranged in a series of 13 stories, offering a cool and captivating descent to the well's heart.
Tailor-Made Top Tips:
The Harshad Mata temple is just to the west of the stepwell (on your right as you approach the ticket counter) and this temple is worth a little diversion while you are in Abhaneri.
As you approach the entrance to the stepwell complex, there are well maintained (pardon the pun!) toilet facilities.
Practical Information:
Abhaneri is quite an isolated little village and is really only accessible if you were to hire a driver for the day. Jaipur is the nearest large city but is still at least a two-hour drive from there. If you approach from Abhaneri from the east, say from Agra (which is a three-hour drive), please note that the once you leave the Bikaner-Agra main road, the country roads are very rough. The Delhi-Mumbai Expressway passes close to the village, but the nearest junction is a thirty-minute drive away.
There are no local hotels, and I would suggest staying in Jaipur and having a day trip to the stepwell. However, if you are looking for a hotel a little closer than Jaipur, the Umaid Palace is a thirty-minute drive to the stepwell, and boasts excellent facilities.
As I have previously advised in my other Indian travel blogs, don’t contemplate hiring a car and driving yourself. Unless you are familiar driving in India, it would be too dangerous. Besides, hiring a driver, is relatively inexpensive. During my travels around Rajasthan, I used the excellent services of Vivek at Just To Travels to organise this for me – website & email.
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Nahargarh Fort Stepwells – Jaipur
Built in 1734 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, this formidable fortress played a pivotal role in safeguarding the Kachwaha rulers of Jaipur from potential invasions. Strategically constructed to protect the approaches to the Amber Palace and Jaigarh Fort. Nahargarh Fort, also known as the Tiger Fort, commanded its position atop the hills, providing a panoramic view of the sprawling city below.
The fort has two lovely examples of stepwells. The larger one is out with the inner walls of the fort, near the Ghati Gate. You can walk along the outer walls and get a great view of the stepwell, but just watch your footing as you do so.
The smaller of the two stepwells is within the main area of the fort, opposite the Cloud Palace. It also benefits from lovely background views of Jaipur, that stretches for as far as the eye can see.
Tailor-Made Top Tips:
The Amer Stepwell, near the famous Amber Palace, is also a great example of a stepwell and it’s a good idea to combine a trip to both attractions. I didn’t get the chance to visit the stepwell, so it has had to be added to my bucket list!
Practical Information:
Be aware that the drive up to the fort is actually a lot longer than you’d think. Despite hanging over the city, you must drive back out towards the Amber Palace, before ascending the hill, then driving back along the ridge to the fort. It takes approximately 25-minutes to get from the City Palace to the fort, therefore I’d advise that you take a taxi or Uber. If you are feeling adventurous, however, there is a very steep, winding paved path that leads directly from the city up to the fort above.
Jaipur itself is easy to reach. Its airport has regular flights to almost 30 Indian cities, including New Delhi, Mumbai, and Chennai, but it only has one international connection, which is with Dubai. There are trains from most major Indian cities and Jaipur can be reached via the extensive state and national highways of India. New Delhi is 260 km away. Buses, with AC and non-AC, operate from all major cities of Rajasthan.
As for accommodation Jaipur is a very popular tourist destination, so you will find a whole range of hotels for all pockets and tastes. I stayed at the Trident Hotel Jaipur and found it very comfortable, with excellent service.
All the top hotel brands are represented in Jaipur, including the Hyatt Regency Jaipur Mansarovar and the Radisson Blu Jaipur. There are also several excellent havelis (traditional townhouses and mansions), such as the Jaipur Haveli and the Samode Haveli.
Read on to discover the "City of Stepwells."
Dhabhai Kund – Bundi
Bundi is a captivating city and is often referred to as ‘The City of Stepwells’, and with over 50 of them scattered throughout the city, it is well named. Bundi may not be a well-known tourist destination, but I found that it truly possesses an authentic soul that will appeal to independent travellers seeking a genuine experience.
Many of the stepwells in Bundi are small and may not necessarily be open to the public, but this charming city has a number of beautiful examples that can be visited. To my mind, the Dabhai Kund is the most impressive stepwell in Bundi, with its symmetry really capturing the attention. It is situated within a pleasant tree-lined enclosure, and access to the complex can be made at all times.
Nagar Sagar Kund – Bundi
Located in the centre of Bundi, these twin stepwells have been a little neglected and seem to be taken for granted within the hustle and bustle of shops and stalls, but that is such a pity. The stepwells are located near the Chougan Gate and are accessible to the public at all times.
Raniji Ki Baori – Bundi
The Raniji Ki Baori, also known as the Queen’s Stepwell, is a beautifully maintained well that was built in 1699 by Rani Nathavati Ji Solanki, the younger queen of the ruling Rao Raja Anirudh Singh of Bundi. The stepwell was constructed in response to frequent droughts in the region and was to serve as a vital water source for the city.
The stepwell descends to a depth of 46 metres and has more than 100 steps. The well is surrounded by superb carvings on the pillars as well as a grand arched entrance. There are sculptures of Ganesha, Saraswati, and Gajendra Moksh, along with other incarnations like Matsya, Varaha, and Narsingh.
Taragarh Fort Stepwells – Bundi
The Taragarh Fort, which translates to ‘Star’ Fort, is a sprawling chain of walls, citadels, and defences, that dominates the steep hill which overlooks the Garh Palace and the city below. The fort was built by the Rajput rulers in the 14th century and played a key strategic role in the region’s history. Within the fort defences, there are several stepwells that can be explored.
Tailor-Made Top Tips:
Walk to the fort via the Garh Palace. This is a fascinating and rambling palace that clings to the hillside, just below the fort. Combine your visit to the fort with that of the palace.
There is only one set of toilets at the palace and there are no toilets at the Taragarh Fort. They are located a short distance from the palace ticket kiosk. Walk away from the kiosk and head towards the buildings in the low outer wall (do not start to climb the slop up to the palace entrance).
It is also a good idea to make sure that you have enough water to drink for your visit to the fort as there are no facilities once you get there.
The stone paths up to the palace and fort are quite steep and slippery. There are handrails at certain parts, but I’d advise wearing footwear with a good grip. Especially when you head back down!
Practical Information:
Bundi’s stepwells mentioned above are all handily located near the centre of the city, and you can comfortably walk between them. The auto-rickshaws are a handy alternative if you want to take it easier, but always negotiate the fare price before setting off.
Bundi can be a little tricky to get to, with the nearest airport being in Jaipur which is about 206 kms away. The railway station in Bundi is located about 4 kilometres south of the old city. There are direct railway connections with Jaipur, New Delhi, Kota, Udaipur and Kolkata. As for buses to Bundi, they are available at regular intervals from Ajmer, Bijolia, Bikaner, Chittorgarh, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Kota, Sawai Madhopur and Udaipur.
Bundi is still a hidden gem in Rajasthan, indeed, many of my Indian friends had not even heard of it, so you will find that there are only a handful of small hotels like the Hotel Nawal Sagar Palace or the Haveli Braj Bhushanjee. The city of Kota is approximately 45 km away from Bundi (just under an hour’s drive), and there is a much larger selection of hotels here, if you can’t secure one in Bundi itself, such as the Country Inn & Suites by Radisson Kota and the Umed Bhawan Palace.
I stayed at the Dev Niwas and found it very comfortable, with excellent service. Just a ten-minute walk from the Garh Palace and also the centre of the city, the hotel has a lovely terrace, served by a good restaurant, with an excellent view of the Garh Palace.
Read on to discover the stepwells in Jodhpur and Chittorgarh Fort.
Toorji Ka Jhalra Bavdi – Jodhpur
Toorji Ka Jhalra Bavdi is an ancient stepwell located in the Blue city of Jodhpur. It was constructed in 1740 by Maharani Tanwar Ji, the spouse of Jodhpur’s ruler Maharaja Abhay Singh Ji. The stepwell was part of the water harvesting system of the city and was designed in an exquisite manner. Viewing galleries also known as Jharokas are constructed around the steps that were used to keep lamps to illuminate the place at night.
Tailor-Made Top Tips:
Toorji Ka Jhalra Bavdi is open to visitors all day and is free to visit and there is no additional fee for photography and videography.
The Tapi Boari is another signifcant stepwell in Jodhpur. I was unable to visit this stepwell during my time in Jodhpur, but the images I have seen of it look awesome.
The Stepwell Café has a beautiful view over the site.
Practical Information:
The stepwell is in the city centre and under the shadow of the imposing Mehrangarh Fort. If you are unable to walk to it, then I’d suggest taking an autorickshaw rather than a taxi, since the streets around this part of the city are narrow and like a rabbit warren.
Jodhpur has a small domestic airport, with plans to transform it into an international one, while the railway station is well connected with major Indian cities. As for public bus transport, there are deluxe and express bus services to cities within Rajasthan. There is also a bus service to Delhi and Ahmedabad. The city is connected to National Highway Network, with three National Highways running through Jodhpur.
All the major hotel chains are available in Jodhpur such as the Radisson Jodhpur and the Fairfield by Marriott Jodhpur. Although I didn’t actually stay there, my meal at the Taj Hari Mahal was excellent and I could tell that this is a very special hotel, if you are looking for a little luxury.
My focus, however, was more on the budget end, and I spent three nights in The Prem Beacon, Jodhpur. It was cheap and cheerful, clean and friendly, and I found it adequate for working remotely.
Gaumukh Kund – Chittorgarh
The majestic Chittorgarh Fort is one of the largest forts in the country and sprawls over a hill 180 m in height, covering an area of 280 ha. The history of Chittorgarh Fort dates back to the 7th century, with its foundation attributed to Chitrangad Mori of the Maurya dynasty. For independent travellers who prefer to explore at their own pace, the fort offers ample opportunities. Wander through the ruins, soak in the spiritual ambiance of the temples, or simply sit and admire the panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.
Arguably, however, it is the stunning Gaumukh Kund that is the highlight of the fort. This a natural spring-fed reservoir is one of the most important water bodies in the fort, and probably the most beautiful. The reservoir is named after the "cow's mouth" (gaumukh) from which the water flows. The water is said to be holy, and it is believed to have medicinal properties.
Tailor-Made Top Tips:
The Samadhisvara Mahadev Temple looms above the stepwell and should be visited at the same time. This Hindu temple is dedicated to Shiva and is one of the oldest temples in the fort, said to have been built in the 11th century. You will also not be able to miss the Vijay Stambh, a victory tower, over 37 meters tall, built in the 14th century to commemorate a victory by the Rajputs over the Delhi Sultanate.
Practical Information:
If you don’t already have a driver, hire a taxi or auto-rickshaw to take you up the Chittor Fort Road and to stay with you while you discover to the defended hill plateau. There is a ticket office close to the fort entrance, where you will have to buy your ticket and that of your driver’s. Most the forts attractions have small car parks beside them. The car park serving Gaumukh Kund is a five-minute walk away. Attractions are scattered throughout the fort, so if you are looking to explore the rest of the fort, it isn’t practical to walk around the fort, hence why you need a driver of some sort.
The nearest airport to Chittorgarh is the Maharana Pratap Airport, in Dabok, which is approximately 90 km away, so the best way to get there is by rail. Chittorgarh is well connected by rail to Udaipur, Jaipur, Ajmer, Ratlam, Delhi, Kota and other major cities. Meanwhile, regular buses are available to Chittorgarh from all major cities in Rajasthan.
As for accommodation, it is quite limited, but I noted that the Hotel Pride of Chittor and the Hotel Grand get good reviews.
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Ugrasen ki Baoli – Delhi
Although not in Rajasthan, I thought that I would add a couple of Delhi’s stepwells as a bonus. And since most foreign travellers access Rajasthan through Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport, these stepwells could be visited at the start or end of your Indian adventure.
Ugrasen ki Baoli is one of the deepest stepwells in India, being 60 meters long, 15 meters wide, and 103 steps deep. The stepwell is believed to have been built in the 14th century, during the Tughlaq or Lodi dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate. The stepwell is named after King Agrasen, a legendary king from the Mahabharata epic.
The stepwell was used to store rainwater and provide water to the people of Delhi during the dry season. The stepwell fell into disrepair in the 19th and 20th centuries, but it was restored by the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1980s.
Tailor-Made Top Tips:
Be careful when walking down the steps, as they can be slippery, and there are no railings. There is no lighting inside the stepwell, so it is best to visit during daylight.
The stepwell is quite central, being between Connaught Place and India Gate, so it is easily accessible by taxi, Uber, autorickshaw and within ten-minutes’ walk of three metro stations.
Red Fort Stepwell – Delhi
The Red Fort, also known as Lal Qila, was built between 1638 and 1648 as the new imperial residence of Shah Jahan. The fort was the centre of Mughal power for over 200 years, being used as a royal residence, a military base, and a government centre. The fort is a must-see when visiting Delhi, so look out for its small stepwell towards the northernmost section of the fort.
Conclusion
Rajasthan may be better known for its regal palaces and impressive fortresses, but I found exploring Rajasthan's stepwells a most unique and rewarding experience that will last in my memory. These historical structures stand as a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of past civilizations. While their primary function of providing water is undeniable, the stepwells also offer a glimpse into the cultural and spiritual life of Rajasthan. If you're planning a trip to this vibrant state, be sure to include a few stepwells on your itinerary. You won't be disappointed.
Related Blog Posts
If you would like more information on the exciting places to visit in Rajasthan, please view the Tailor-Made Itineraries posts below:
Comment below and let us know if you have visited any stepwells and which one was your favourite.
Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries delights in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if visiting any of these stepwells appeals to you, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating the stunning attractions detailed in this guide to the stepwells of Rajasthan.
Join me next time on my adventures when I give an overview of the Land of Kings, Rajasthan. Tailor-Made Itineraries posts every two weeks, and you can subscribe to the latest blog and newsletter here. Until then, happy reading and safe travels.
Barry
Contact Me: tailoritineraries@gmail.com
Tailor-Made Itineraries creates one-of-a-kind bespoke self-guided travel itineraries for adventurous and curious travellers.
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