Adventures Along the NC500 and Beyond – Loch Eriboll to Durness
- Barry Pickard
- 3 hours ago
- 7 min read
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. Regardless of this, please be advised that all opinions expressed in this blog post are genuine and authentically my own.
Author: Barry Pickard
Hi, I'm Barry, the owner of Tailor-Made Itineraries and I have been designing bespoke self-guided tours for adventurous and curious travellers since 2015. I am a history graduate with a passion for travel.
I created this blog to show, through my own adventures, how you can have an incredible travel experience as an independent traveller, giving you the information to navigate the world with confidence.
Contents
What makes the stretch of the NC500 from Loch Eriboll to Durness the most breathtaking yet challenging section of Scotland's North Coast 500 route? The answer hit me as I stood at the edge of Loch Eriboll at dawn, inhaling the sharp scent of sea salt mixed with wild thyme while the haunting cry of seagulls echoed across the dark waters and the distant rumble of waves against Durness's limestone cliffs promised adventures ahead. This isn't just another scenic drive—it's the stretch where the NC500 reveals its true Highland character, winding through landscapes so remote and dramatic that you'll feel like you're driving through the pages of a Scottish fairy tale.
As someone who's spent many years designing Highland itineraries and personally navigated every twist and turn of this legendary route multiple times, I've discovered that the Loch Eriboll to Durness section offers something no other part of the NC500 can match: complete wilderness punctuated by hidden gems that most tourists miss entirely. During countless research trips along this remote coastline—from photographing the UK's most northerly mainland beaches to scrambling down to secret coves where seals bask on ancient rocks—I've personally tested every stop, viewpoint, and hidden attraction I'm about to share with you. I'm not talking about generic NC500 recommendations pulled from tourism websites; these are the insider discoveries that transform this challenging drive into an unforgettable Highland adventure.
If you're an independent traveller who thrives on remote roads, spectacular coastal scenery, and the kind of hidden spots that make you feel like you've discovered Scotland's best-kept secrets, you've found the perfect guide. I'll share the practical knowledge that'll help you navigate single-track roads, time your stops for the best light, and find those magical moments that make the NC500's most remote section its most rewarding.
What is the NC500?
Commonly known as “Scotland’s Route 66”, the North Coast 500 has quickly become an iconic, must-do tourist route, having only been formally marketed as such back in 2015. The NC500 is actually 516-miles long, starting and ending at Inverness Castle, running along a mainly coastal route through the traditional counties of Inverness-shire, Ross and Cromarty, Sutherland and Caithness. It has become so popular that has been described as "Scotland's Route 66".
Over the years, I have explored the sections of the NC500 route several times, although not necessarily the complete route in one single journey. Indeed, my travels in this area began even before it had been called the North Coast 500. My travels have opened my eyes to the beauty of the route and has given us the opportunity to also find hidden gems off the beaten track.
At Tailor-Made Itineraries we delight in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if travelling the NC500 appeals to you, reach out to us by email. We would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating the sites along the NC500, or indeed, a general tour of Scotland. We also have 5 and 10 day set itineraries that you can purchase from our online store (see below).
Loch Eriboll & Lotte Glob Sculpture Croft
Loch Eriboll is a 16 km (9.9 mi) long sea loch has an interesting history which matches its beauty. While checking out the loch, we made sure that we visited Lotte Glob’s Sculpture Croft, which is on the western side, near Laid. Lotte Glob is a Danish Ceramist, but she has lived and worked in the North West coast of Scotland for the past 50 years. The sculptures are colourful and fun, and you are encouraged to wander through Lotte’s workspaces and yard to admire her work.
The loch itself have an interesting history. The name comes from the Norse "Eyrr-bol", or "Farm on a beach" and for a number of centuries, the loch was used by the Royal Navy as a deep-water anchorage as it is safe from the often-stormy seas of Cape Wrath and the Pentland Firth. Interestingly, the largest island in the loch, Eilean Choraidh, was used as a representation of the German battleship Tirpitz for aerial bombing practice. Also, of note is that the surviving 33 German U-boats formally surrendered at the loch in 1945 and the end of the Second World War.
Smoo Cave
We just had to visit this cave, if only because of its name! It turns out that "Smoo" is a name thought to derive from the Old Norse Smuga which means "hiding place". What a hiding place it is, as this spectacular sea cave boasts a 50 ft high entrance. Within Smoo Cave, there are three chambers, with the first and biggest having been carved out by the sea and the second and third chambers having been created by the action of the freshwater Allt Smoo stream, which runs through a sink hole down into the cave. It is here that you can find the 60ft waterfall caused by the river dropping into its sinkhole. The first chamber and part of the second are accessible by foot and are free to visitors. If you wish to go further into the cave, there are regular boat tours during the summer months.
While at Smoo Cave, take the time to take the short hike up to the top of the eastern headland. You will be rewarded with some stunning seascapes.
Sango Bay
Further along the coast from the cave is the beautifully formed cove of Sango Bay. With golden sands, rocky formations and plenty of sheltered outcrops, Sango Bay offers visitors the best of everything. If you don’t mind the cold, the beach offers good surfing! There are various car parks servicing the beach. We used the carpark at the Durness Visitor Centre, which gave us a great overview of the history and natural fauna of the area.
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Balnakeil Beach
Sutherland is blessed with many beautiful beaches, and perhaps if the weather was warmer, this area of Scotland would rival the beach resorts of Spain. Balnakeil is one such beach. This wide, white beach with large dunes, is known for its spectacular sunsets. When you visit the beach, you will immediately notice the large building at the entrance to the beach. Balnakeil House was built between 1720 and 1744, on top of the remains of the earlier summer palace of the Bishops of Caithness.
On the other side of the road is a gate leading to the churchyard and remains of Balnakeil Church. The church itself was built in 1619, on the site of a much older church. The church went out of use in 1814 and is now roofless and ivy-clad, but we found that it was a great location to get shots of the beach.
Balnakeil Craft Village
Balnakeil Craft Village is situated next to the village of Durness and is home to a range of local artists & businesses including a chocolatier, hairdresser, art galleries, paintings & prints, ceramics, woodwork, glass work & more unique crafts. Our favourite was Cocoa Mountain Balnakeil - a fantastic stop for chocolate lovers. The chocolates are to die for, as is the hot chocolate, which is often very welcome in this northerly climate!
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Conclusion
The journey from Loch Eriboll to Durness proves that the NC500's most remote section is also its most rewarding for independent travellers willing to embrace Highland adventure. From the deep fjord-like beauty of Loch Eriboll where NATO submarines once practiced secret manoeuvres to the otherworldly limestone landscape around Durness where underground rivers carve cathedral-sized caves, this stretch offers experiences that capture the wild essence of Scotland's far north. What struck me most during my multiple journeys along this route wasn't just the dramatic scenery, but how this section rewards patient exploration with discoveries that feel entirely your own. Whether you're drawn to geological wonders, historical mysteries, or simply the profound peace of driving through landscapes where sheep outnumber people by thousands to one, the Loch Eriboll to Durness section delivers the authentic Highland experience that makes the NC500 truly special.
Accommodation around Loch Eriboll and Durness
There are few accommodation options in this area with the ones available tending to be short-term lets, like Wallaby's and Kempies, which are lovely examples. Alternatively, you could always stay at the Durness Youth Hostel.
Many who visit this area either do so by caravan / camping or visit as part of a day trip, staying in Thurso or Ullapool, the nearest towns.
Options in Thurso include The Station Inn and the Weigh Inn Hotel & Lodges, while in Ullapool the Arch Inn and the Riverside are perennial favourites with travellers.
Click on the underlined weblinks above to review these hotels and make your reservation.
Related Blog Posts
If you are interested in finding out more about the NC500 route, please view the Tailor-Made Itineraries posts below:
Which part of this remote NC500 section sounds most appealing to your Highland adventure—share your NC500 bucket list in the comments below!
At Tailor-Made Itineraries we delight in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if travelling the NC500 appeals to you, reach out to us by email. We would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating the sites along the NC500, or indeed, a general tour of Scotland. We also have 5 and 10 day set itineraries that you can purchase from our online store (see below).
Tailor-Made Itineraries posts every two weeks, and you can subscribe to the latest blog and newsletter here. Until then, happy reading and safe travels.
Barry
Contact Me: tailoritineraries@gmail.com
Tailor-Made Itineraries creates one-of-a-kind bespoke self-guided travel itineraries for adventurous and curious travellers.
These self-guided tours deliver a personalised and exciting holiday experience that takes the effort out of trip planning.
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